The Designing of  Lemon Rose Chypre

In designing Lemon Rose Chypre for Sudsy Soapery, I initially began by thinking about both the Sudsy Soapery mission and the dedication and ethos of the people behind it. I wanted to make something that felt natural and honest that nods to nature while retaining a classical sensibility. Not necessarily simple, but both straightforward while remaining lush and intriguing.

I began with a chypre structure, a classic accord that features oakmoss and labdanum (a plant resin) in the base, often garnished with citrus and florals. The oakmoss and labdanum create a base that exalts the typically bright overtones of the top notes while slowly emerging as the top notes burn off, with the goal of exploring a garden scene from the top of the trees, to the flowers beneath and all the way to the mossy, green undertones.

In order to avoid creating too old-fashioned of a scent, I chose a bright citrus combination of lemon and ruby red grapefruit. The lemon essential oil in Lemon Rose Chypre is extracted through distillation, not only avoiding any photosensitizing effects but also creating a more candied lemon scent to contrast the sparkling ruby red grapefruit notes. The fresh, sparkling effect is further enhanced by a touch of fresh ginger and the sharp sweetness one experiences when cutting into the root.

Underneath those top notes is rose essential oil, which due to its complexity and richness carries the middle section of the fragrance. It is a honeyed Turkish rose, which takes its place within the blend and adds to the character without detracting from the other elements in the fragrance.

Finally, to bridge between the green, rich undertones of oakmoss and the sweet citrus on top, Nepalese palmarosa essential oil is the secret weapon that bridges everything together. This helps create the backdrop for the entire landscape and is a great facilitator in this chypre scent.

It was a great joy to create this fragrance and I was excited to learn that Sudsy Soapery was interested in using it in their wonderful products. It is a true pleasure to work with our neighbors and friends in this collaboration and I look forward to many to come.

-Shawn Maher, Chatillon Lux


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